2011年3月23日 星期三

When did 4th & Swift turn into a great restaurant?

When did 4th & Swift turn into a great restaurant?


Venison with kabocha squash puree (photos by Becky Stein)
While the food is mostly excellent, the greatness comes from the whole package. Chef-owner Jay Swift has surrounded himself with a crack team – from pastry chef Chrysta Umberger to general manager Seth Roskind – who work toward a unified vision of what casual fine dining can and should be.Still, it's a slim opening being offered to inflatable products the Libyan strongman, one that he might be inclined to take coming as it does not just from a personal acquaintance, but someone who hails from "the first developing country to experience people power." A consistency of tone extends from the room design, to the look of the food, to the tenor of the service. It’s a feeling of warm precision, wholly unique in this city.

Umberger, a great talent who honed her skills at Restaurant Eugene, will have you at butt-sinking-onto-cushion hello with her dinner rolls. They arrive with soft butter – hot enough to make your fingers dance,Marketing officer Jo Lewis said: "The new inflatable tent lights really make the venue come alive. People have been commenting on how spectacular they look and I really think they make coming to the theatre more welcoming and enjoyable." daintily sized enough to make you succumb. Just one, you say. But there are two: soft honey rolls and crusty sourdough. Alas, you need both.

The menu speaks of a kitchen with a rare sense of industry.A built-in dock is attached to the battery and when DSTT not in use folds up in a nice compact manner to about half the size of the iPhone itself. The top page proposes a daily “market menu” with a dozen or so specials, from appetizers to vegetable sides and cocktails, with plenty of room devoted to fresh fish. Turn to the next page, and you have a “seasonal menu” that’s no slouch. Unusual proteins such as pheasant and venison remind you that this is why youIn the other open position, the outdoor christmas decorations dock holds the iPhone in a perfect position for resting on a tabletop for most any use including FaceTime. eat out.

Swift plates with an eye to color and shape and not just for decoration, but to underscore his approach to flavor. Consider a stunning piece of flounder ($25) seared to a crisp in a sauté pan and thick enough to steam when cut. Now place it over potato “risotto,He said that a county council employee had witnessed a near miss between led lamp a car and cyclist, and he added: "If the argument is leave them off for good, then the answer is ‘no'."” by which I mean precision-cut little cubes. Decorate it with romanesco cauliflower (that spiky green variety that looks like a succulent from an alien terrarium) and a bright pool of tomato vinaigrette. All these sharp textures and flavors work like a squeeze of lemon on the mild fish, but to far better effect.

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